Copy Cat

Originality and the Ontario Wine Industry

So when I say Ontario wine, what do you think? I know it’s all dependant on wine knowledge but I would bet if you’re not from Canada you will say “Ice Wine”. If your from Ontario, that might also be your answer.

And why do people think Ice Wine? In 2017, Canadian Wineries exported $39.6 million of wine. And I’m sure you know where this is going…..$24.5 million was in Ice Wine sales! And that’s only 0.1% of global sales so it’s no wonder that most foreign wine consumers have no idea we exist.

The next question I have is why only 50% of our wines are consumed domestically? This stat is from 2015 but pretty sure the numbers are similar today. And in 2019, 24.52% of Canadians say they prefer Canadian wines. If we look at other wine producing countries, we are one of the most unpatriotic of the bunch.

I want to understand why?

In 2020, Canada imported $2.5 billion of international wines. We sold $0.5 billion of domestic wines. Ok, that’s it with the stats but we drink 5 times more imported wine than domestic. In my mind a few things are clear:

• we aren’t supporting our local economy
• there is a huge foreign market that don’t know Canadian wines exist
• we need to increase our exports of more than just Ice Wine

I am not an expert on this and I’m sure these are issues that Canadian Wine producers are dealing with on a daily basis but……….

WHY AREN’T WE BUYING DOMESTIC WINES?????

I’m going to concentrate on the Niagara Peninsula cuz that’s what I’m more familiar with. 

When I go to the LCBO I have thousands of choices.  If I’m feeling like white wine, then I next have to decide on varietal or country because that’s how the store is set up. 

If I feel like a chardonnay I then have to pick a country because not all chardonnay’s are in the same section.

 What country makes good chardonnay wines? This depends on your level of knowledge but you can think France, California, Chile, Australia and Canada……..and only may choose Canada because you live here and have tried some.

Next you have decide on price and quality.  Do Ontario wines win out on either or both of these criteria?  I don’t think our wines are ever going to win on price. 

So quality?  I think we can compete with quality but I’m living in the middle of vineyards and have done a lot of research during covid:)  The average Ontario Wine consumer is not picking that Ontario wine most of the time and I think part of it has to be our preconceived notion of Ontario wine (think Baby Duck) and having to compete against other Old World/Cool Climate wines (I’ll explain that later).

So……..now why is this post called Copy Cat? Are we using French and German grapes to taste like Ontario wines or are we using French and German grapes to replicate French and German wines?  If we are growing French grapes and making wines in an Old World French style then how can we compete against French producers that have been practising their craft for centuries.  Imitation might be the best form of flattery but if consumers think the original is still better because it has been around longer,  then we have a steep hill to climb. And if “Ontarians”  don’t even have confidence in the quality of our wines, it’s tough to think consumers in say Spain will pick our Ontario Chardonnay over a French Burgundy.

 Instead of being the copy cat, let’s figure out how Ontario wine producers can lead! 

• Being in a cool climate region, we can produce wines with great acidity.  The Niagara Escarpment can make outstanding Rieslings that can outshine even those they were trying to imitate.  Think Cave Spring Riesling CSV that continues to get accolades from wine critics as one of the best Rieslings around.
• If we continue on that acid trip, how about Champagne?  One reason Champagne is a stand out is because of  high acidity.  This can be done because the Champagne region has a cool climate as does Ontario.  We make amazing sparkling wines in the Niagara Region and at a price point that won’t break the bank.(read my post on sparkling wine)  You could drink this everyday of the week.  This is a product that we should be proud of and be promoting the hell out of it!!!!!
• The last place I believe we could make an impact in the wine industry at home and abroad is with the varietal Cab Franc.  Genetically it’s the father of Cabernet Sauvignon and is know to have much more finesse than it’s offspring.  A minor player in the Bordeaux Blend and seen by itself in French Regions such as the Loire Valley, Cab Franc is the top red grape produced in Ontario and for good reason.  Cold weather doesn’t bother this baby and an Ontario Cab Franc has a juicy, medium tannic lushness thats goes well with most foods you throw at it. This is an underdog that is no copy cat and would lead Ontario wines to a level of recognition they deserve(read this article about Cab Franc and wines to buy)

 

Now I personally think there are a lot of Ontario wines that can beat the French at their own game (think Bachelder and Cloudsley Cellars) but unfortunately many of these Burgundian styled wineries are unknown to many consumers outside the Niagara region. 

 

So I guess what I’m saying is that Ontario wineries need to find their niche so they can stand out in a wine world that has decided we are just about Ice Wine. Once we are recognized for something unique, where we stand out as one of the leaders  then this could open up the doors to all the great wines we have to offer.

The Travelling Vines

Catherine Kangas